For as long as I can remember (essentially, the length of time I was in Pakistan), I’ve always wanted to check out Wagah Border – known the world over for the beautiful yet baffling daily Indian and Pakistani flag raising and lowering, which serves as a symbol of the two countries’ rivalry, as well as brotherhood and cooperation between the two nations. Every day, at the time of dusk, the Retreat ceremony has been occurring for the past 60+ years. Of course, there’s also another significance in that Wagah is the only road border crossing between India and Pakistan.

As you might have surmised though, this also makes it a site that’s normally targeted by terrorists who want to wreak havoc between Indo-Pakistani relations (never particularly good even on the best of days). As such, before heading here, would suggest you check with your hotel or local friends to see whether it’s safe. While there, do practice constant vigilance as well – at the first sign of trouble, would suggest you scram

You can get there either through public transport (you can hire a rickshaw / taxi; or take the Minibus No. 4 from outside Lahore Railyway Station) or by hiring a private car. In my case, I got a private car who would bring me there and wait for me as well. The car will bring you as far as the admissions gate, where you have to pay an entrance fee. The trip from Lahore city center takes roughly 30 minutes. After paying the fee, you can then take the small train which will bring you directly to the ceremony area

The ceremony takes place every evening before sunset at the Wagah border – do check with your hotel as to what time the ceremony will take place. Don’t worry about seating – they have preferential seats set aside for foreigners… really nifty as they’re one of the best spots too!). I didn’t know that at the time however, so I came WAAAY too early – which means I suffered under sweltering heat (43 degrees Celsius) while waiting for the ceremony to start. Was super envious of my seatmate, who was smart enough to bring a hat to don while waiting

At long last – the ceremony begun – starting with a blustering parade by the soldiers of both countries, the Pakistan Rangers (in their bright orange attire) and India’s Border Security Force (recognizable given that they’re in all black). Honestly, in terms of pomp factor – Pakistan wins hands down, but India’s all-black attire certainly looks more imposing, don’t you think? Did you know, the soldiers of these ceremonies are specially appointed and trained for this ceremony? Cool right – shows how much import both nations place on this particular ceremony – a battle of pomp and ceremony, so to speak (more like, who can kick the highest…)

Equally awe-inspiring was the enthusiastic cheering of the crowd in sync with the lively, energetic parade of the soldiers. You can tell each side was trying to out-cheer the other. For this alone, I’d 100% recommend you head here so you can see with your own eyes the passion and patriotism for the respective nations running at an all-time high. Whew, what an experience!

Here’s a photo of me with Pakistan’s #1 cheerleader! WOOHOO – do you think I’ll still be welcome in India next time?

At long last, the bluster ended, and the soldiers executes a perfectly coordinated lowering of both India and Pakistan’s flags – the flags are folded, handshakes are exchanged, and the gates close for yet another day

Truly a privilege to have seen this – wow, just wow! Highly recommended, if ever you’re in Lahore or even Islamabad (although that’s a 4.5 hours drive away), and of course, do check it out if you’re in India as well!

Note, if you’re coming from Islamabad, you should definitely check out a couple of attractions a long the way, such as the Katas Raj Temple, Khewra Salt Mines, and the Rohtas Fort

Interested to know more? Read my other Pakistan blog, and enjoy!

• Pakistan: A logistics and travel guide for first-time travelers
• Lahore: Exploring Pakistan’s cultural capital
• Islamabad: Exploring Pakistan’s political capital
• Karachi: Exploring Pakistan’s business capital
• Day trips from Lahore and Islamabad: Exploring Pakistan’s North
• UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Reliving history and the beginnings of civilization
• Taxila and Takht-i-Bahi: Tracing the footsteps of explorers