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[The World in a Nutshell] WanderTales: Stories of adventures and misadventures

Pakistan: A logistics and travel guide for first-time travelers

Whenever I tell people I spent seven months in Pakistan, they’re honest-to-goodness shocked. Reactions vary from the normal “What’s in Pakistan?” to worried “Was Pakistan safe, were there any bombs while you were to there?” to (frankly) ridiculous “Did you see any terrorists?” To be fair, before I had gone to Pakistan for work, I wasn’t sure what to expect either… My mentor at work told me NOT to Google as international news media tend to exaggerate and focus only on the bad, and that many a consultant from my Firm had gone to Pakistan for work, and obviously they’d all come back safe and sound. With that thought in mind, I (happily?) started to file for my Pakistan visa, and realized it was a MAJOR PAIN. Seriously! You’d think this country would want more travelers to visit, therefore they’d try to make the process as easy as possible… but nooooo. Okay, I digress

Mazar e Quaid 2

Anyway, the main point being – I managed to get my visa (after quite a bit wrangling), finally arrived in Pakistan (Lahore to be exact, via Thailand), and to my surprise – was greeted by friendly, welcoming faces and quite possibly, the most helpful people (if sometimes a bit too friendly!) people during all my travels. Combine that with the incredible historical sites (UNESCO Heritage Sites abound here!), the stunning yet largely untouched natural landscapes (different from the Philippines, but could definitely rival it), and the sometimes interesting sometimes weird (for a foreigner) culture that I definitely learned a lot from – Pakistan turned out to be one of my FAVORITE travel spots for the year, a true gem as far as I’m concerned, and one I’d gladly share to more people (hence the blog!) So, without further ado – let’s dive in shall we?

Kahtas Raj Temple

Table of contents

Is Pakistan safe?

Always one of the first (or at least first five questions) asked, I figure I should put this to rest first. Yes, Pakistan’s security situation isn’t the best in the world BUT I can confidently say that it is largely under control across most of the country, except those bordering Afghanistan (don’t worry, foreigners aren’t allowed in those areas anyway). For complete transparency, terrorist attacks do still occur in Pakistan (there were ~3-5 while I was there), but honestly and sadly, terrorist attacks happen everywhere nowadays and I would prefer a country that’s always on the lookout (and ready to issue an advisory) for such attacks. Likewise, these terrorist attacks usually occur in heavily populated or politicized areas – so if locals tell you to avoid certain areas during certain days (e.g. expected demonstrations), please do heed their warnings

If you are afraid of authority figures (read: police or military), then this country isn’t for you as the police and military abound EVERYWHERE. As for me, I found it quite reassuring to be honest, and in some places during my travels (like when I went trekking through Margalla Hills in Islamabad), they even offer a free police escort (sometimes you can refuse, other times you can’t) – don’t think this means it’s an unsafe area, sometimes it also means they just want to keep an eye on you. If you do encounter problems during your travels, I’d suggest you scream – both passerbys and police will come rushing in to provide help. They treat foreigners with the utmost respect and would be contemptuous to folks who don’t do the same

Day trip - Wagah Border

Other reasons that made me feel safe (which may not apply to you): there are stringent security checkpoints in strategic areas and certain establishments (e.g. airport, hotels, malls) and they are STRINGENT (complete with sniffer dogs, comprehensive car checks, spiky barriers for those who attempt to run through the checkpoint, etc.) While most countries do have this, I find that Pakistan takes it a lot more seriously. Unfortunately or fortunately (depending on your perspective), they’re also quite wary of foreigners so they’ll ask to check your passport and visas at certain checkpoints. Don’t worry if this happens (better yet, have multiple photocopies of your passport and visa ready so you don’t have to hand over the actual document)

Having said that, obviously the normal Safety 101 rules still apply – don’t go out late at night in an area you’re not familiar with, don’t walk down a street without any lights or other people around, always tell someone where you’re going (just in case), bring pepper spray with you (or an umbrella) – anything you can use to defend yourself if needed!

How do I get to Pakistan?

Good question – and one I definitely did not know before. If you’re coming from Southeast Asia (like me), transit through Thailand is the way to go. I am incredibly impressed by how well-connected Thailand is, truly! Bangkok to Lahore takes around 5.5 hours, schedule is pretty good – you leave Bangkok at 19:25 and land in Lahore at 20:40 (Lahore time), and is a pretty uneventful flight overall

Do note – there are three main airports for you to fly into – Islamabad (the political capital), Lahore (the cultural capital) and Karachi (the business capital). If you’re going for travel purposes, I would suggest making Lahore your first stop then go to Islamabad from there – which is a common jump-off point for the scenic treks and nature hiking up north

Margallah Hills 2

How do I apply for a visa?

Ohmygosh, just writing this makes me feel pained. The visa application process of Pakistan is painful – there are a LOT of requirements (click link below to download the excel file indicating the requirements) and processing time is long (at least 5 working days)

Pakistan visa full list of requirements – click link to download excel file

Don’t get me wrong, the embassy folks are really nice and they try their best to be helpful; but their requirements and processing time are just… a tad unreasonable (especially because your passport must be with them the entire time – painful for someone who travels a lot for work, like me!)

One additional thing to note, if you’re planning to get your Pakistani visa outside your country of nationality (or one where you don’t have a residency visa), forget it!

When’s the best time to go to Pakistan?

This largely depends on where you want to go, but I would say September to April would be the best times to go weather-wise. Having said that, if you’re itching to check out the northern mountains, then going during spring time would be best as that’s when the flights start operating again!

How do I travel around Pakistan?

Bit of a complicated question. So if you’re traveling from one city to another, it’s important to understand where the cities are located. For example – if you want to go from Lahore to Islamabad, you can certainly fly (1 hr flight + 1 hr travel time to and from the airport, but flight delays are normal), or you can opt to take a car (4 hour drive through a very nice highway). I usually opt to just take the car, as I get a lot more flexibility and can work the entire four hours (or sleep!). If you’re going from Islamabad/Lahore to Karachi, then flying is the way to go (flights are decently priced too!)! Again, from Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu, the best way to go is fly as well – BUT do note that flights are frequently cancelled to these areas (mountainous regions) due to bad weather – as their pilots fly and land based on sight (no fancy equipments here!), which is a bit scary…

Other long-haul transport options include train, local and luxury buses (e.g. high-quality Daewoo buses which are supposedly really great!)

Now if the question is how to travel within the city – taxis, rickshaws and buses are popular means of public transportation in Pakistan but tbh, not one I would recommend normally for a couple of reasons:

  • Taxis and rickshaws don’t have fixed fares, so you’ll need to bargain in advance. I’m always wary of doing this as I’m never 100% sure what to bargain it down to (also as an obvious foreigner, I always feel like I’m being ripped off)
  • I have a healthy fear of putting my life in the hands of someone who knows the area better than me. So when I do this, I always have my GPS out and ready at all times. That way, I can track where we are at all times
  • Sometimes, I truly have no idea where to find these guys. I don’t know where the taxi / bus / rickshaw stands are, and most locals don’t either!

Lahore Fort 5

What was my normal mode of transport then? Uber/Careem or I hire a local car (and driver). So, if you’re just going from one popular city area to another – Careem is the way to go! I didn’t know this at first, so I was using Uber. Sadly, Uber’s maps infrastructure is quite bad – so your driver tends to get lost. Do note that the driver’s English is typically not good, so if he’s lost, it’s VERY difficult to find each other (I typically hand my phone over to a local, and ask them to help communicate with the driver). After awhile, my local friends told me Careem is the way to go (it’s Uber’s Middle East competitor). Once I started using Careem, my life became infinitely better!

Now, if you’re going to areas slightly outside the city (e.g. UNESCO Heritage Sites that are slightly out of the way), or if you’re planning to do a whole day city tour – I’d suggest you hire a car and driver to explore the area. It gives you flexibility and assurance, BUT it is expensive. Unfortunately, because Pakistan isn’t a tourist destination yet, it isn’t easy (actually close to impossible) to find a fellow traveler whom you can split the cost with. Sad, but that’s reality!

Rohtas Fort

Where do I stay in Pakistan?

Okay, this is NOT a backpacker response. I stayed only in hotels while in Pakistan – and they were hella expensive, plus quality wasn’t that great either (service was good, but facilities and amenities weren’t that great – definitely not five-star level)

So I recommend Marriott Hotel in both Islamabad and Karachi, while I recommend Nishat Hotel in Lahore. As far as I’m concerned, these are the best hotels in these cities!

What should I wear in Pakistan?

So this isn’t a problem for men – normal shirt and shorts are fine (although pants are best, of course). For women, I was pretty much wearing long-sleeved tops and pants everywhere. Locals have told me I can go around in sleeveless tops, but I figured it was best to be safe (and respectful) by showing as little skin as possible. Luckily, I was there during the winter to spring time so the weather was nice and cool, so long-sleeved tops were perfect!

Having said that, the above applies if you’re in the bigger cities, but once you move to rural (and more traditional areas, plus if you wish to enter the mosques), covering your hair (for women) using a head scarf can become customary, and I would recommend you buy a shalwar kameez, their typical attire – which is super comfy, and really pretty! I bought one too, and my local friends gifted me another one when I was about to leave

Shalwar Kameez.JPG

What do I eat in Pakistan?

Okay, let me start by saying I am not very fond of Pakistani food (to be fair, I was never fond of Indian food either) – too much sauces and spices for my palate. But if you love Indian food, you’ll probably like Pakistani food too! They eat lots of beef, lamb, goat and chicken – so you won’t need to worry about substance. Having said that, there ARE some yummy food places – which I’ll share in my Islamabad, Karachi, and Lahore blog posts

Bombay Chowpatty

What I did like though were the fruits – from the typical (bananas, apples, mangos, mandarins) to the exotic (persimmons, pomegranates); and their drinks (chai, which is essentially tea with milk, as well as lassi, which is a yogurt drink, are both super yummy!)

Do I need to bring cash?

Yes, 100x yes! Pakistan does NOT believe in credit cards. Example, when you order from Foodpanda, half the establishments only accept cash, which really really sucks. Anyway, Pakistan Rupees are the official currency, where USD 1 is roughly PKR 100 – easy conversion right?

How can I stay connected to the outside world while in Pakistan?

Through the internet of course! Having said that, data coverage in Pakistan isn’t great (very similar to the Philippines aka slow and spotty…), and they have pretty frequent power outages. I recommend you buy a Pakistani sim card – please go with Zong, which has the best connections! Sadly, as a foreigner, it’s very difficult to buy a sim card (aka need to go to the central office, and pay an exorbitant fee). If you’ve got a local friend, ask them to sign up for you – so much easier and you’d have to pay only USD7 for a sim card with 1 month’s worth of data and calls – what a steal!

Do people in Pakistan speak English?

Quick fact: Pakistan’s official language is Urdu, BUT most regions have their own local dialects – which is what folks there will be proficient in. Having said that, educated folks can speak English – to varying degrees, which would include police officers. To be clear, if you’re in urban capitals, chances of you finding locals who can speak English would be… ~50% (higher if you’re in high-end malls and hotels), but outside these capitals, the percentage drops drastically

Why should I go to Pakistan?

This is a super loaded question, and honestly, if you’re very very skeptical about the country – nothing I say will convince you to go. But, if you’re game for an adventure and eager to enjoy the following things I’ll list below, then I wholeheartedly encourage you to go – you won’t regret it!

The people are AMAZING: they’re genuine, hospitable, friendly, extremely welcoming – eager to show you their country and ensure you have a great time!

LUMS

Relive history and discover the cradle of civilization: Someone once told me, “To travel in Pakistan is to step back into the pages of history.” If you know the silk road (and if you don’t, it’s an ancient trade road that linked the Roman empire to China; which China is now trying to recreate through its ‘One Road, One Belt’ initiative), then you’ll know (or be surprised to know) that the historical trade route’s heart lies in Karakoram, the crossroad between three major regions (the Indian Subcontinent, Central Asia, and the Middle East) but also of the world’s three biggest religions (Islam, Buddhism, and Christianity). So if you’re a history buff like me, then head on over to Pakistan (and check out my blogs that tackle historical sites I’ve visited specifically, e.g. Taxila and Takht-i-Bahi, UNESCO Heritage Sites) Do note that as a foreigner, entrance fees must be paid (typically around 250 rupees, but can sometimes be more expensive (as in the case of the Khewra Salt Mines); plus a small tip (ranging from 100 to 500 rupees)

Takht I Bahi 4

Beautiful landscapes: Snow-capped mountain peaks, fantastical fairy meadows, the list goes on and on. Trekking, climbing, rafting, bungee jumping, plane flying – are you an adventure junkie? Then this country’s for you – not only are the activities diverse, they’re also CHEAP!

Montal 3

Any other tips before I head to Pakistan?

Connect with other backpackers prior to travelling to Pakistan, join the Backpacking Pakistan facebook group. Through this group, you can ask detailed / specific questions about Pakistan or even find a travel buddy on the dates you’re there!

Interested to know more? Read my other Pakistan blog, and enjoy!

Other places I would have loved to explore given the chance:

  • Bhurban / Murree / Nathiagali
  • Gilgit / Fairy Meadows

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