What to see, do and eat when in Istanbul – a detailed breakdown by area

After nearly a week exploring other parts of Turkey, we finally made it to the bustling, historic heart of the country — Istanbul! A city that straddles both Europe and Asia, Istanbul is vibrant, chaotic, deeply storied, and surprisingly walkable (if you’re okay with hills!). From minarets and sultans to rice pudding and jazz, this travel guide covers our favorite things to do, eat, and see — by neighborhood — for an unforgettable Istanbul adventure.

Where We Stayed in Istanbul

We based ourselves at Four G Hotel, which I’d highly recommend for Istanbul first-timers. The rooms were modern and comfortable, and the location couldn’t be better — walking distance to the Sultanahmet highlights like the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Plus, we loved starting our days with their hearty Turkish breakfast buffet spread.

Day 1: Sultanahmet: History & Heritage in Istanbul’s Old City

What to Do:

• Blue Mosque: Despite its name, the Blue Mosque isn’t all that blue anymore post-renovation — but it’s still breathtaking, especially with its rare six minarets (a controversy back in the day because Mecca’s Grand Mosque also had six — the solution? Build a seventh minaret in Mecca!). The best part? It’s free to enter!

• Hagia Sophia: Originally a Byzantine cathedral, then an Ottoman mosque, and now a mosque again — this massive structure is a living symbol of Istanbul’s layered history. While it might not feel stunning at first glance, its sheer scale and heritage are impressive. Having said that, we didn’t want to pay to enter, so we just admired it from outside. Having said that, if you’re Muslim, you can enter for free to pray

• Hippodrome: Once the chariot-racing stadium of Constantinople, it was also the site of the Nika Riots — a class-fueled rebellion that ended with Emperor Justinian ordering 30,000 people massacred.
• Obelisk of Theodosius: The oldest monument in Istanbul, brought all the way from Egypt!

Where to Eat:

• Sultanahmet Köftecisi: Their meatballs (köfte) are legendary — juicy, flavorful, and clearly beloved by locals and tourists alike (the queue outside speaks for itself). So make sure to go here early to avoid the queue.
• Hafiz Mustafa: A dessert paradise! From kunefe to saffron tres leches to the creamiest rice pudding — we tried everything. Highly recommend visiting after your Sultanahmet stroll. Also, this is a good place to buy pasalubong because they’re packaged very nicely. Having said that, they’re honestly quite pricey… So just buy here for your very close friends and family hehe. For the others, there are cheaper places to buy from.

• Seven Hills Restaurant (Terrace Only!): Want a panoramic view of both the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque? Head to this rooftop — you don’t even need to order anything, just snap away.

Travel Tip: If you’re short on time, a walking tour with a guide is an efficient way to get historical context. We loved our guide Haktan — full of knowledge and fun facts!

Day 2: Topkapi Palace

What to Do:

• Topkapi Palace: Honestly, we didn’t expect to spend the whole day here (and actually I wouldn’t recommend it LOL)— but there’s a lot to see. Don’t miss the Harem (the most beautiful part), the Kitchen (love seeing how they ate), and the Holy Relics (Prophet Muhammad’s beard hairs, the Sword of David — very intriguing if slightly suspect).

• Hagia Irene: A quick visit is enough — it’s a rare example of a bare-bones Byzantine church.

Where to Eat:

• Şehzade Cağ Kebap: This unique horizontal rotisserie method delivers tender, juicy meat on perfectly soft pita. So good.

• Meşhur Filibe Köftecisi: Another köfte spot — slightly overshadowed by Sultanahmet Köftecisi in our books, but still delicious. Plus, the cook has been doing this for 50 years — he even posed for a photo with us!

Day 3: Bazaar District + Galata and Taksim

What to Do:

• Grand Bazaar: The world’s oldest surviving market with over 4,000 shops! That said… I found it a bit underwhelming — prices were high, and the stalls started to feel repetitive.

• Spice Bazaar: Also didn’t wow us, but the colorful displays make for good photo ops.

• Beyazit Square: Home to Istanbul University and the State Library. The library’s interiors are beautiful if you can peek inside. At first they said we couldn’t enter, but my husband managed to sweet talk his way inside (and we tagged along too!)
• Galata Bridge: Amazing views, especially at sunset. Bundle up if it’s windy — the Bosphorus chill is very very real.

• Galata Tower: Pretty iconic, but the €30 entrance fee felt steep, so we skipped it. Spend your lira on Turkish delights and souvenirs instead! Still it’s pretty cool because my husband and I read up on Istanbul’s history after the trip and Galata Tower was actually mentioned several times in the book
• Bookstores Galore: Istanbul is full of gorgeous bookstores (we were so jealous!). Josh even picked up a history book on the city. It was a really boring book though, so I’m afraid I can’t recommend it.

Where to Eat (Galata side):

• Pera Antakya: A must-visit! We tried various grilled and oven-baked meats — everything was delicious.

• Bova Sahne: We ended the night with live jazz from the Efe Demiral Quartet. A great way to experience Istanbul’s art scene.

Travel Tip: While the Taksim area can feel touristy, it’s also where Istanbul’s nightlife comes alive. If you’re into music or bars, plan an evening here. And actually, I’d say there are a lot more “happening” places here so if you’ve done the touristy stuff in Istanbul already, this might be a good place to stay and chill actually

Day 4: Across the Bosphorus: Istanbul’s Asian Side

What to Do (Europe side):

• Gülhane Park: A charming park where tulips are re-planted each year (did you know tulips are native to Turkey?).
• Orient Express Station: Fascinating fact — despite the grandeur of the Orient Express station, Turkey isn’t a big railroad country. Train travel was once associated with communism, and flying remains incredibly cheap.

• Ferry Ride from Europe to Asia: We stayed on the top deck — cold but worth it. Istanbul’s skyline is mesmerizing from the water and it’s pretty cool traveling from one continent to another via boat.

What to Do (Asia side)

• Maiden’s Tower: Just this small cute tower seemingly in the middle of the sea. You can ride a ferry to visit it but we were happy seeing it from afar

• Ebru (Marbling Art) Demonstration: We loved witnessing this unique Turkish art form.

• Turkish Hamam at Sifa Bath: One of our favorite experiences. It’s local and not touristy at all. Just know there’s not much English spoken, and bring a change of underwear! The full-body scrub, foam massage, coffee scrub, and hair wash left me feeling SO clean. Brutal but satisfying!

• Sunset along the pier: We were so blessed to finally see the sunset on our last full day in Istanbul. In previous days, it had been cloudy all throughout. And in fact, it even snowed the day of! But wow, thank you Lord, a sunset finally appeared!

Where to Eat:

• Balik Dürüm (Fish Wrap) from Salacak Café: Light, fresh, and packed with flavor.

• Nevmekan Sahil: Government-subsidized and incredibly affordable, this municipal diner isn’t gourmet, but the architecture (glass dome!) is worth seeing.

• Unkapanı Pilavcısı: Local fast food joint with buttery rice and surprisingly tasty liver.

• Ira Bakery: The Güllac — a Ramadan dessert — was interesting, but the atmosphere and cakes were the real win.

Travel Tip: Prices on the Asian side are noticeably cheaper, so it’s a great place for foodies, shopping, or a relaxing day away from tourist-heavy areas.

Final Thoughts

Istanbul is a city that constantly surprises — where layers of empires and religions converge, and where east literally meets west. From chariot races to tulips, ancient relics to jazz concerts, every corner has a story. While some attractions were a bit underwhelming (looking at you, Grand Bazaar), the food, views, and culture more than made up for it. I’m so glad we packed in as much as we did — and even happier that we ended with a clean scrub at the hamam and a slice of baklava cake.

‘Til next time, Istanbul!

Exploring other parts of Turkey? Do check out my other Turkey blogs!

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What to see, do and eat when in Istanbul – a detailed breakdown by area